
All About saree:
India has been known to have wonderful dresses and costumes. The most common and
accepted attire is the saree.For a single length of material, the Indian saree must be the most versatile garment in existence. A saree is a rectangular piece of cloth that is five to six yards in length and sometimes nine yards. Yet, this dress is worn by millions of Indian women and is, by far, the most elegant. It is not merely an outfit but an ornament, lending both grace and glamour to the wearer. saree is for all purpose - party wear, daily wear, bridal wear and so on.The age old saree has kept its popularity throughout the centuries because of its total simplicity and practical comfort combined with the sense of luxury and sense of sexuality a woman experiences.saree is an Indian women’s statement to the world. What is a typical Indian saree like??? The saree can be a shimmering silk, or fine cotton or an elegant chiffon material. It can have the most intricate embroidery with silk threads or even silver and gold threads. The colors can be vibrantly bright or subdued pastels. There are sarees to match every mood and every occasion to suit every budget. The saree has an ageless charm since it is not cut or tailored for a particular size. This garment can fit any size and if worn properly can accentuate or conceal. This supremely graceful attire can also be worn in several ways and its manner of wearing as well as its color and texture are indicative of the status, age, occupation, region and religion of a woman.What is saree?
The Sari : In All Its... But the concept of grace, as you know, would differ from one part of the country to the other and thus, although the six yards of unstitched fabric remained constant, the way it was draped around the body differed. In Kerala they cut off the pallu and the
part that goes around the torso from the part that is draped around the legs and hips and made it into a two-piece sariWorn traditionally with a zari border the chandan colour set-mundu is worn during all festivals and at weddings even by urbanised Keralite girls.
Move up to the Coorg region and the sari is worn severely square at the shoulder, the pallu draped across the shoulder, making it look more African than Indian but still very easy on the eye. Between the Coorgese woman and the Coorgese sari one doesn't know whom to admire more. Maybe there should be a visual equivalent of ambidextrous.
The traditional Tamilian mami will prefer to drape her heavy Kanchipuram sari around herself, the lower part of the calf uncovered, the extra bit of pallu created thereby wound around her waist. What is striking about her is that she wears the
most gorgeous of Kanchipuram saris in this most casual of ways; its like she's dressed to go to a wedding every day. Moving north to Maharashtra we come to another treatment of unstitched cloth. The six yarder becomes a nav-vari and this is the sari at its naughtiest. Behold the distracting accentuation of the contours of the derriere, the way it is tucked into the waist at the back, the way it sweeps low at the waist, the eye being attracted to the tantalising expense of flesh by the gold waist-band that the Maharashtrian belle inevitable wears. The long pallu rears up now and then like the hood of a cobra and the veni in the bun at the back completes the killing effect the ensemble creates. If there was any incarnation of the sari that would inspire men to lech this was it. No wonder most families in Maharashtra dissaprove of daughters of the house wearing the nav-sari which has now become the
domain of the laavni dancers and the aged kaakus. The Shiv-Sena's greatest contribution to this country would be if they would it compulsory for all Maharashtrian women to wear the nav-vari. They could have my vote then.Ladies and Gentlemen, may I present the sari in all its incarnations? The weightage given to the sari in Indian society was brought home to me in the third year of college when some girls in our batch would follow some unseen change of feminine hormones, discard their tank-tops and jeans, their elephant pants and their salwar-kameez and come to class wearing a sari. And you should have seen the attention they got !
The professors of the male as well as of the distaff persuasion treated that girl with more respect. The peons in the office looker at her with more respect. The principal would take a girl in a sari more seriously than say, in a T-Shirt and Jeans. Even the guys in college would look at a sari-clad contemporary with more respect.
Did she get that respect as result of the transition she had effected from girl to woman? Was it the result of successfully managing to drape six yards of fabric around her or was there an in-built dress-bias in the Indian psyche? Or was it the respect that any product which has stood the test of time deserves? I mean to say the sari is the longest running 'in fashion' item of feminine apparel in the world ! This phenomenon fascinated me and have been conducting a survey on the aesthetics of the sari since the last twenty years. Here are the results. The Indian civilisation has always placed a tremendous importance on unstitched fabric. Take a look at the lungi, the set-mundu, the dupatta, the dhoti, the daavni and finally, the sari. Unstitched fabric is somehow given sacred overtones as notice people who mostly sit for pujas wearing one of the apparels mentioned above. The belief was the unstitched fabric was pure.
Besides it would confer a flow to the contours of the body which would make an Indian woman, who is graceful enough, more graceful.
Histry of sarree
Five Thousand Years Legend has it that when the beauteous Draupadi - wife of th
e Pandavas -was lost to the enemy clan in a gambling duel, the Lord Krishna promised to protect her virtue. The lecherous victors, intent on "bagging" their prize, caught one end of the diaphanous material that draped her so demurely, yet seductively. They continued to pull and unravel, but could reach no end. Virtue triumphed yet again in this 5,000 year old Indian epic, the Mahabharat. Legend, fantasy, history or fact, it is the first recorded reference to the enduringly attractive SARI - the longest, most popular style in the history of women's fashion.Over the centuries, there have been changes. The diversity of the Indian people is reflected in a variety of materials used for a Sari and the way it is draped in different parts of the country. In the South of India, the nine-yard length is draped between the legs to fashion flowing pants. The Coorgi's from central and South India wear it to look like a modern western full-length gown and some tribes use it to cover the topless.The traditional six-yard sari, however, is a classic and allows for generous pleating and draping around the body and over the shoulder - almost Grecian in its elegance. The basic draping of a Sari, the folding, tucking and pleating, is shown in diagrams here. Beyond that, the Sari is an Indian woman's statement to the world. It could be of shimmering silk or the finest gauzy cotton. Perhaps a pastel-hued solid color or a riot of woven flowers. It may even be embroidered with golden threads, or finished with a richly tasseled border. It speaks of romance or riches, of sobriety or gaiety, of sophistication or innocence.Men are intrigued by the demure floor-length attire and tantalizing display of a bare midriff in the back. It is said that a Sari rarely fails to flatter a woman, making her feel fragile and feminine. It is an instant fashion, created by the hands of the wearer and subject to none of the vagaries and changes that plague the fashions of the western world. For these reasons,an increasing number of American women have begun enjoying the simplicity, yet flowing grace of the Sari. The hostesses on India's national carrier, AIR-INDIA, wear the traditional six-yard Sari instead of a more conventional in-flight uniform. The success of the Sari through all the centuries is attributed to its total simplicity and practical comfort, combined with the sense of luxury a woman experiences. The Sari is mentioned in Hindu literature and depicted in Hindu painting as far back as 3,000 B.C. A charming folktale explains..."The Sari, it is said, was born on the loom of a fanciful weaver. He dreamt of Woman. The shimmer of her tears. The drape of her tumbling hair. The colors of her many moods. The softness of her touch. All these he wove together. He couldn't stop. He wove for many yards. And when he was done, the story goes, he sat back and smiled and smiled and smiled."The most popular sarees are:
1. Silk sarees
2. Bangalore silk sarees
3. Embroidered sarees
4. Chiffon sarees
5. Crepe sarees
6. Printed sarees
Choli:Along with the saree is a choli, the tightly fitted, short blouse worn under a saree. The choli evolved as a form of clothing in 10th century AD and the first cholis were only front covering; the back was always bare. Bodices of this type are still common in the state of Rajasthan.The choli is a tight fitting item of clothing, and adds a fashion statement to the saree. The sleeve length travels from full sleeves to half sleeves to sleeveless over a period of time.Cholis are often made of cotton or silk cloth and may or may not include a collar and sleeves. They are generally more tailored than simple knit tops, and may contain "feminine" details such as ruffles or embroidered decorations. Cholis have buttons reversed from that of a men's shirts. That is, the buttons are normally on the wearer's left-hand and the buttonholes are on the right. The reasons for this are unclear, however. Some suggest this custom was introduced by launderers so they could distinguish between women's and men's shirts, and could thus charge more for women's blouses, supposing women are more gullible and submissive. Another theory suggests that the tradition arose in the Middle Ages when one manner of manifesting wealth was by the number of buttons one wore. Female servants were in charge of buttoning their mistress's gowns (since the buttons were usually in the back). Tiring of attempting to button the buttons backwards, they started reversing the direction of the buttons, therefore, easing their jobs considerably.A choli reveals more than it conceals. Its cut, color and the way it is worn would tell you about whether the woman is casual, carefree, bold, reticent or orthodox. It is a dead giveaway of a woman’s attitude and personality.The choli (blouse) has undergone a sea change. There are sleeveless blouses, spaghetti straps, and bell sleeves. You get them in all the bright shades. But reds, maroons, wine red and whites are more in demand with attractive saree these days. The work that is done on the cholis is elaborate and very intricate, at times. Zardozi, in-laid with stones, antique and gold work or sequins on them form part of the embroidery. When it is a part of a bridal collection there is lavish use of gold and antique threads.The choli (blouse) has undergone a sea change. There are sleeveless blouses, spaghetti straps, and bell sleeves. You get them in all the bright shades. But reds, maroons, wine red and whites are more in demand with attractive saree these days. The work that is done on the cholis is elaborate and very intricate, at times. Zardozi, in-laid with stones, antique and gold work or sequins on them form part of the embroidery. When it is a part of a bridal collection there is lavish use of gold and antique threads.Style-wise, the perennial favorites are the short-sleeved numbers and wrap-arounds, with or without straps. Blouses with prominent buttons at the back are equally popular. Also making strong statements are blouses with long sleeves in transparent chiffon or lace. Besides, there are off-shoulder versions as well as those held up with strings and lycra blouses for a casual, westernized look.The fabrics used for designer blouses are mostly crepes, georgettes, silk and satin. Crepes are currently high in demand.Designer cholis may have a sequins and beads work. Designer blouse with rich chikan embroidery in colored thread all over is especially designed for ceremonies. A designer blouses may also have a embroidery work in gold and bronze threads. Designer blouses have sleeves and neck cut in different designs.saree cholis are worn quite snug and fitted in varying lengths, necklines and sleeves. All saree blouse should be created with a full opening either in the front or the back. They have to fit snugly like a corset. saree fabric for blouses included with sarees are only 1 yard x 44".Little wonder, cholis are no longer treated as mere decorative garments. As designer Suneet Verma puts it: "It is a statement of a woman’s sense of freedom, an expression of female vanity and, most importantly, a celebration of feminine grace."
Petticoat:There is a petticoat , or a slip, which is worn under the saree that holds the saree in place. A petticoat is a skirt that is essentially worn under the saree. Petticoat is a waist to floor garment very similar to a lehenga or skirt, which is tied with the help of string or naada at the waist. A saree is wrapped over a petticoat. Petticoats are often made of cotton or polyester cloth. Usually a petticoat is of the matching color with saree. The saree is incomplete without a petticoat. The petticoat can be many in different varieties. They MUST have a firm waistband. Elastic will not do. One step on the petticoat and down comes the saree. The modern Indian petticoat is reminiscent to a skirt made up of many A-line panels. This has the advantage of giving a slim silhouette and using less fabric. The other petticoat is 4 yards of 45 wide fabric gathered onto a 3-inch wide waistband. This is the one which can be used for hot weather or when you need to walk a lot. This gives a greater movement and more air movement.The Blouse Petticoat is a must when wearing a saree and is the key to the overall shape of the saree.
First put on a choli and a petticoat. The blouse must be close fitting.The petticoat must be ankle length and should have a draw string at the top,Pull the drawstring and tie the petticoat around the waist comfortably.
2.
The petticoat should be tied tightly, so that the saree does not slip. Take the inner edge of the saree and tuck it into the petticoat in front, a little more to the right side, with the saree going towards the left.
3.
Gather pleats evenly and neatly, and tuck them into the petticoat, slightly towards the left side, but not too much to the left. See that the breadth of the pleats is equal, and that they are piled on top of each other evenly. The lower edge of the pleats should also be even and just off the ground. The gracefulness of the saree depends mainly on these pleats.
4.
Having tucked in the pleats, turn around again to the right, holding the top edge of the saree in your hand, and bring it round your hips to the front.
5.
Gather the pallu, and place it over the left shoulder. The upper border of the saree should slant across the bust from under the right arm to over the left shoulder.
6.
The palu should be about a yard (90 cm.) in length, just touching the fingertips, as it falls evenly behind you.
If you still feel it is hard to drape the saree. Designers have come out with a novel solution, pre-stitched sarees. Pre-stitched sarees makes saree wearing a one step easy process. These sarees are draped and stitched together with a petticoat to make it an easily wearable garment, just like putting on a skirt, without the fuss of tucking, pleating and adjusting the pallav length. This easy to wear, pre-stitched saree can be worn by any body without the bother of actually draping it.
saree is the only garment in feminine apparels that has stayed ‘In Fashion’ for 5000 years. Why? you wonder.. It is after all, only 6 yards of unstitched material, but look what it can do to any woman --- Make her look even better!!!
Silk saree
The most popular and expensive sarees are the silk sarees, especially in South India. It is common for the bride to be attired in a red silk saree. This collection of sarees has woven in designs in gold or silver, embroidery or beadwork, prints etc. Silk sarees are worn for weddings, formal occasions and festivals.
Embroidered sarees
Embroidered sarees are designer sarees, made using different types of fabrics and designs to make this ethnic Indian attire gorgeous. The material used for the Embroidered sarees is flowing and graceful. Georgette, crepe, chiffon and silks form the basis for most of their creations. Designers work on the embroidery designer Indian saree and the most suitable color combinations and materials like kundan, zari, kori, and stones are used for the embroidery
Printed saree
These light sarees are popular for their designer. These sarees generally have a theme print for example Indian prints, geometrical, nouveau art, floral, figures, jungle print etc. These designer printed sarees are available in every color and in various color combinations. These light wear sarees are suitable for casual wear / semi-formal wear and are always in demand.